Cycling trip: Along the Úslava River to Castle Kozel
The long weekend is drawing nearer, and the weather has yet to take a turn for the worse, leaving you with some free time to try out another time-tested cycleway. This one will take you from the city centre, along the Úslava, and into the southern Pilsen region.
Difficulty: medium, includes one ascent (two ascents included in the extended cycling route)
Length: approx. 50 km (makes for an all-day trip if you include visits to the castles and meal breaks). Due to the current coronavirus pandemic, restaurants are only open via their pick-up windows. Some restaurants are closed entirely.
Start your journey by leaving the city centre and heading past the Pilsner Urquell Brewery, in the direction of the Baumax shopping centre – then take a right onto the roadside cycle path. We would recommend riding along the far side of the Úslava River (in the direction of the current and along the right riverbank) under the leaves of the age-old trees, which create an intriguing double alley.
At Rolnické Square you can take a quick break by visiting Museum Lobzy (a museum of old automobiles, all visits must be arranged in advance). Next you will pass by Pilsen’s Božkov neighbourhood, the leisure-time natural park of Božkov Island (Božkovský ostrov), and finally the meadows along the Úslava, which will lead you to Koterov, a small village which doubles as a historic preserve with its rustic courtyards.
Continue onward through the meadows that surround the Úslava, until you reach cycleway no. 31, which will take you to Old Pilsen (Starý Plzenec). Here you can leave your bikes in the bike stand on the city’s Malostranské Square, and walk the 150 meters over to the oldest building in Southwest Bohemia, the Rotunda of St. Peter and Paul, with its awe-inspiring view of the surrounding area, including Radyně Castle.
If by now you’re feeling thirsty, head over to the first restaurant on the city square in Old Pilsen. It’s right in this little town, also known as the original Pilsen, that the largest producer of barrel wine in the Czech Republic, Bohemia Sekt, is located.
When it’s time to get back on your bike, locate cycleway no. 2124, which will take you to Sedlec. From the crossroads in Sedlec, an ascent will be waiting for you, most of which is luckily shaded by trees. Continue along the asphalt path through the forest (cycleway no. 2154) to the Svidná crossroads, from which you can enjoy the descent all the way to Castle Kozel.
Leave your bikes in the bike stand in the car park, and embark on a leisurely walk through this hunting castle’s beautiful gardens. You can take a break on one of the many benches in the castle café, as well as set off on a tour of the castle’s interior.After your tour, continue on your bikes to cycleway no. 2154. You’ll pass by Neslívský Pond and eventually arrive at the Hádek crossroads. Once here, we would recommend taking a break to enjoy a drink or a light lunch in the gamekeeper’s cabin, located in the centre of the forest (open on weekends). Then make your way along cycleway no. 2040 to Kornatice, which marks the halfway point of our trip.
From here, ride down the pleasant descent to get to the Lopata nature reserve, which carries the same name as the nearby castle ruins. Assuming you’ve got the energy, you can go check out the ruins, they are located about 300 metres from the guidepost. Just be aware it can be difficult to reach the ruins by bike, due to the tree roots and uphill climb. The next stop on our cycling trip, Lopatský Pond and its panoramic view of Castle Kozel, can be found by following the blue trail markers.
Here you can order a snack in the castle café, take a seat on a bench, or sip on an excellent cup of tea with a slice of cake on the side from the Nameless Teahouse (Bezejmenná Čajovna). Next, continue following the blue markers down the charming oak alley that leads to Štáhlavy. Ride along the tracks in town, until you reach cycleway no. 31 and the frequently used road (about 2 km in length) that leads back to Old Pilsen. From here, you can take the same path along the Úslava back to Pilsen’s city centre.
Extended option #2 with second uphill ascent
From Štáhlavy, pedal up the gradual hill to the base of Radyně and continue a bit along the main road to Losiná. Truly adventurous cyclists can even ride to the top of the Radyně Hill, from where one can enjoy the view from the castle, which was founded by King Charles IV, over the visible Bohemian and Upper Palatine Forests. Reward yourself with a delicious lunch from the newly opened restaurant Pod Radyní, decorated in its original forest style.
After leaving Losiná, ride down the hill along cycleway no. 2126 to Černice, the village historic preserve, where one can find a belated lunch or early dinner in any one of the many restaurants, including the microbrewery and beer spa of Purkmistr. All that’s left to do now is make your way back to the city centre, which shouldn’t take longer than 45 minutes, by riding past the villas of Pilsen’s Bručná neighbourhood and along the Úhlava River (yellow trail marker and cycleway no. 31).
